Discovering Szentendre: Hungary’s Charming Riverside Gem
- Gems of Budapest
- May 28
- 7 min read
Updated: May 30
Szentendre is a delightful town just a short 40 minute train ride (or a longer scenic boat trip) from Hungary’s capital, which offers a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of Budapest. With its cobbled alleyways, colorful baroque houses, vibrant art scene, and riverside charm, Szentendre (pronounced Sen-ten-dreh) feels like stepping into a storybook. Whether you're a history enthusiast, art lover, foodie, or someone simply seeking a picturesque day trip, this town has something for everyone.
The Calvinist Church (Opovatchka Church) Szentendre, © www.gemsofbudapest.com 2025
How to Get There
By Train: From Batthyány tér, take the HEV H5 suburban rail line. Trains run frequently, and the journey takes about 40 minutes
By Boat: From Vigadó tér Pier, enjoy a scenic 90-minute cruise (spring through fall only)
By Bike: Adventurous travelers can cycle the 25 km from Budapest along the Danube bike path
By car: Use Google Maps or Waze and set your destination as “Szentendre Belváros” or a specific museum/restaurant for easiest navigation.
Start: From central Budapest, get onto Route 11 (Szentendrei út).
Direction: Head north along Route 11.
Stay on Route 11, which turns into the main road to Szentendre.
After about 20–25 minutes, you’ll see signs for Szentendre.
Once you enter town, follow the signs for the city center (Belváros) or parking areas.
There’s ample parking in and around the town center:
Papírgyár Parkoló – Large lot, 5–10 minutes’ walk to the center.
Duna Korzó Parking – Closer to the riverside promenade, but fills up fast on weekends.
HÉV station parking – Convenient if you're doing a park-and-ride option.
Most parking areas are paid (cash/card or mobile app), and machines usually have English options.
Local Tips
✅ Go early on weekends, especially in summer, to avoid the crowds
✅ Cash is king in small shops and food stalls - bring Hungarian Forints (HUF)
✅ Many museums are closed on Mondays, so plan accordingly
✅ Boat trips run between May and September; check timetables in advance
✅ Szentendre is very walkable, but wear comfy shoes - those cobblestones are no jokes!
A Brief History
Szentendre’s story begins thousands of years ago. It was first inhabited by the Celts and later by the Romans, who left behind remnants of roads and outposts. The name “Szentendre” translates to “Saint Andrew” and refers to an early Christian monastery once located here.
The town saw major growth in the 17th century when it became a refuge for Serbian Orthodox Christians fleeing the Ottoman invasions of the Balkans. This influx gave Szentendre its unique multicultural character, blending Serbian, Hungarian, and later other Central European traditions. The Orthodox influence can still be seen today in the numerous churches with distinctive spires and richly adorned interiors.
Saint John the Baptist Catholic Parish Church in Szentendre, © www.gemsofbudapest.com 2025
Preobrazenska Church in Szentendre, © www.gemsofbudapest.com 2025
In the 20th century, Szentendre transformed into an artistic haven. Hungarian painters, sculptors, and ceramicists found inspiration in the town’s idyllic surroundings and cultural heritage. The result is a legacy of creativity that still thrives in the town’s galleries and studios.
Famous Artists Who Lived and Worked in Szentendre
Károly Ferenczy (1862–1917)
Often referred to as the father of Hungarian impressionism.
Though not originally based in Szentendre, his artistic legacy greatly influenced the local art scene.
His children continued his tradition and became central figures in Szentendre’s artistic community.
Béni Ferenczy (1890–1967)
Son of Károly Ferenczy.
A renowned sculptor and graphic artist.
His works are displayed in the Ferenczy Museum, which honors the whole Ferenczy family.
Noémi Ferenczy (1890–1957)
Twin sister of Béni Ferenczy.
A highly respected tapestry artist, she was a pioneer in elevating textile art in Hungary.
Also part of the Ferenczy artistic dynasty.
Margit Kovács (1902–1977)
A beloved ceramic artist whose work blends folk art, religion, and humor.
Known for her unique sculptural ceramics with expressive, stylized human figures.
Her extensive body of work is housed in the Margit Kovács Museum in Szentendre.
Jenő Barcsay (1900–1988)
An influential painter and theorist.
Known for his constructivist style and his famous "Art Anatomy" book, which is still used by art students.
Spent much of his life in Szentendre and has a museum dedicated to his work there.
Lajos Vajda (1908–1941)
A modernist painter known for his fusion of surrealism, constructivism, and folk motifs.
Considered a key figure of the Szentendre School, blending tradition with avant-garde style.
Dezső Korniss (1908–1984)
Collaborated with Lajos Vajda.
Also part of the Szentendre School, combining modernist elements with Hungarian folk traditions.
The "Szentendre School"
This is not a formal institution but a term used to describe the loose collective of modernist artists who lived and worked in Szentendre, particularly from the 1920s onward. These artists were united by a desire to blend Hungarian folk art with contemporary European styles such as cubism, surrealism, and constructivism.
Must-See Attractions
Start your journey at Fő tér (Main Square), the beating heart of Szentendre. This charming plaza is surrounded by pastel-colored buildings, boutiques, and open-air cafés. A baroque cross in the middle of the square was erected by grateful residents in 1763 to commemorate their survival of a plague.
The Main Square with the Plague Cross Szentendre, © www.gemsofbudapest.com 2025
Wander uphill from the square to discover Orthodox and Catholic churches, each offering a different window into the town’s religious past. Blagovestenska (Annunciation) Church stands out with its richly painted icons and gilded altar.
Blagovestenska (Annunciation) Church at Szentendre's Main Square, © www.gemsofbudapest.com 2025
Art is everywhere in Szentendre. Visit the Ferenczy Museum to see the works of Károly Ferenczy, a founding figure of Hungarian impressionism, and other members of the Ferenczy artistic dynasty. The Margit Kovács Ceramic Museum is another must-see, dedicated to the famed ceramic artist whose whimsical, folk-inspired sculptures blend tradition with modern flair. For more information, visit: https://femuz.hu/archiv/en/kovacs-margit-2/
Margit Kovacs Museum (famous Hungarian ceramics artist), © www.gemsofbudapest.com 2025
For a bit of fun, especially if you're traveling with kids, pop into the Marzipan Museum, where you can admire elaborate sculptures—including full-sized celebrities and fairytale scenes—crafted entirely from marzipan (address: Szentendre, Dumtsa Jenő utca 12., open on Monday-Sunday: 9.00-19.00 p.m.)
Program Ideas & Activities
There’s more to Szentendre than museums and architecture. The town offers a host of activities that make for an enriching and relaxing visit.
Stroll along the Danube Promenade, a tranquil riverside path lined with trees, artisan stalls, and ice cream stands. During summer, it's also possible to take a scenic boat ride between Budapest and Szentendre—a memorable way to arrive or depart.
The Danube Promanade in Szentendre, © www.gemsofbudapest.com 2025
If you're interested in Hungarian folk culture, the Skanzen Open Air Ethnographic Museum just outside Szentendre is a must. This expansive (75 hectars) outdoor museum features reconstructed villages from various regions of Hungary, complete with authentic homes, workshops, and interactive exhibits. Traditional food tastings, folk dancing, and craft demonstrations bring history vividly to life.
The Open Air Museum in Szentendre, source: www.skanzen.hu
SKANZEN Hungarian Open Air Museum: www.skanzen.hu
address: 2000 Szentendre, Sztaravodai út
opening hours: May-October, Tuesday-Sunday 9:00-17:00
By local bus from the terminal of the suburban train to the Museum
The Skanzen can be reached by local bus from the suburban train terminal. The bus station is next to the terminal. Buy your ticket at the yellow ticket machine or at the ticket booth. The bus usually departs from platform 6.
Throughout the year, Szentendre hosts vibrant festivals. The Szentendre Wine & Lángos Festival, held each autumn, celebrates local wines and Hungary’s beloved deep-fried bread snack. In summer, the Open-Air Music and Art Festival fills the town with live performances, street art, and festive energy.
Culinary Delights
Food is a major highlight in Szentendre. The town’s culinary offerings reflect its diverse heritage, with Hungarian, Serbian, and Balkan flavors all making an appearance.
For a hearty traditional meal, try gulyásleves (goulash soup) or stuffed cabbage rolls at one of the cozy restaurants tucked into historic buildings. You might also sample pljeskavica, a spicy Serbian meat patty, served with flatbread and ajvar (a roasted red pepper relish).
Top Restaurants in Szentendre
Rab Ráby Restaurant
Cuisine: Traditional Hungarian
Why Visit: Named after the Hungarian novel "Rab Ráby," this restaurant combines dining with a museum-like atmosphere, showcasing antique items and medieval decor.
Reservation: rabraby.hu
Rozmaring Kertvendéglő (Rosemary Garden Restaurant)
Cuisine: Hungarian with Balkan Influences
Why Visit: Set in a charming garden, Rozmaring is a lovely place to enjoy traditional meals outdoors.
Reservation: https://rozmaringkertvendeglo.hu/
Aranysárkány Vendéglő (Golden Dragon Restaurant)
Cuisine: Traditional Hungarian
Why Visit: Established in 1977, this restaurant offers classic Hungarian dishes in a cozy setting.
Reservation: aranysarkany.hu
Trattoria Cardinale
Cuisine: Italian
Why Visit: A go-to spot for pasta lovers, offering authentic Italian dishes with a welcoming vibe.
Reservation: https://cardinale.hu/szentendre/home.php
Görög Kancsó Étterem (Greek Pitcher Restaurant)
Cuisine: Greek and Hungarian
Why Visit: Established in 1961, this restaurant offers a blend of traditional Greek dishes like souvlaki, gyros, moussaka, and homemade baklava alongside Hungarian specialties.
Reservation: https://www.gorogkancsoetterem.hu/en
Street food is also popular here. Lángos—a deep-fried dough topped with sour cream, cheese, or garlic butter—is a must-try snack. You’ll find it at street vendors and markets, perfect for grabbing on the go as you explore.
For dessert, Szentendre’s patisseries serve up Hungarian classics like dobos torte (layered sponge cake with caramel glaze), or marzipan confections, reflecting the town's sweet-toothed creativity.
Top it off with a glass of local wine or a warming shot of pálinka, Hungary’s traditional fruit brandy—each sip a celebration of Hungarian hospitality.
Szentendre offers a unique blend of history, art, culture, and cuisine in a setting that feels both timeless and welcoming. Whether you're wandering its cobblestone streets, exploring a quirky museum, enjoying riverside views, or indulging in a sweet treat, this little town will capture your heart—and possibly inspire you to return again and again.
